David and travelled through Nicaragua together from February 19th to March 3rd. Here are some impressions of our time together in what is, in my opinion, the most beautiful country in Central America:
Managua - February 19-20
a long tired ride from Tegucigalpa to Managua, a surprise encounter an airport saviour, our mirror-image doppelgangers, sexy strangers with the same story, a Nicaraguan Dali, lovers loving a late valentines, vino simulcast and a putasnack dinner at the Nicaragua Guesthouse, residential Managua graffiti a gangster gifting Sandino riffing and a Marley beast keeping the streets alive, a morning meander and couta´s cash cow at the armed mall, a city of school children in white and blue uniforms, joyous cab ride joyous flight
Little Corn Island - February 20-25
small plane stopover in the bluefields of Vietnam, ferry ride from hell turned amusement park ride and wet wet wet from head to toe, salty petrol eyes wave, turn off engine, water whip wave hit it like Ahab
david´s first paradise, our caribbean oceanswept cabana of eclectic ensueño charm, a cockroach cabana, a spider above my head, the very best coconut bread we be eatin´ by the loaf, windy beach on the powerless northend rising tide receding beach seaweed beachmat and a sunchase, a struggle to find the sun to catch it from the clouds to settle on sand free of flies and that deceptive caribbean breeze
the feel of a deserted island, the feel of grassy little hills beyond the sand and homes built from sea detritus, leftovers from pirate days, coco palms candles and a romantic quirky sway a snorkel scare, a burnt davey (burnt back burnt feet burnt scalp), wine days rum days 2-day novelfest, beach sunsets, seafood cocktails, Toñas, photo battles, nightime aliencrab dog-licked, flashlit, pincers out and heading to the ocean in stressed confusion
casa iguana´s best view on the island, beach lolling, sun spots hot sauce sun hikes gekho gazing lovemaking translating and davey´s chaotic bag. Habana libre, my full fish dinner: head bone eyehole tail, friendly creole locals, our drunk cook and a breakfast delayed til the rooster crow morning comes
Granada and Masaya - February 26-28
colonial charm, tourist strip dinner mad, dog beggars child beggars a late bill a davey unimpressed, Masaya folk dinner, dancing piña coladas, lago de apoyo drunk party boys chatting up davey as i hammock languish, premenstrual, or pregnant, planning an Argentine abortion in the most beautiful place on earth
Ometepe - March 1-3
the flow, the cataract hike, shelly and mike, oranges and avocadoes from the gods, cows! blood sugar dip and suddenly i´m 85, no energy, dry fruit a narrowly escaped rockfall fela from oregon, early bus no bus cab breakdown hitched ride and a chance discovery of magic eye
After Ometepe, David and I spent one night in San Juan Del Sur. The following morning, we took a cab to the border so that we could cross into Costa Rica and take an onward bus to San Jose.
After we parted at the airport, I cried.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Okay I understood love making,pregnant and the last paragraph!
ReplyDeleteLOL!!
ReplyDeleteI concur with Donna.
ReplyDeleteso brilliant! i have this, run-on streams of morocco. just not as good. love 'hammock languish'. and catching sun from clouds. sigh!
ReplyDeleteTranslation (clean version):
ReplyDeleteFirst stop Little Corn Island. To get there and back we had to take a flight and a small boat. During the boat ride we all got completely soaked, and Erin and I loved it. We were going to spend three nights there but decided to stay a fourth and then got stuck for a fifth because we didn't make return reservations for a flight soon enough. Little Corn is a beautiful tropical island in the Caribbean Sea surrounded by beaches and palm trees and inhabited by friendly locals. There are no cars and only half the island has electricity, and only half the time.
After Little Corn we headed to Granada with a bunch of people we met on the Island. We arrived at dusk, checked into a super cute hostel with a small swimming pool and tree-lined courtyard, and went to a Mexican restaurant for dinner. During our meal a kid came up to the table and played the theme from the Titanic twice on a flute, a girl tried to sell Erin a ceramic pot “for shoes for school” and then scowled after Erin shook her head with a smile to say no, different dogs sat at our table throughout most of the meal, and kids begged us for money and our food. When I told one kid he could have the rest of mine he grabbed the plate and all our chips and three kids devoured it in 5 seconds. The bill took half an hour after asking three times and the waiter tried to trick us on the conversion rate. I thought that if this is what traveling is like I’d rather be in Toronto, but that place was on the tourist strip and the rest of Granada isn’t like that at all. We explored the beautiful city and thriving market but wished we had more time because there are many interesting day trips from there. We only had time for one, so we chose to go to the crater lake, and one night we went to another city to see traditional dancing. Did I mention that the people are super nice. One of my favorite parts of the trip was riding the “chicken buses” with the locals. I miss them.
From there we went to a volcanic island in Nicaragua Lago. Erin said it was the most beautiful place she’d been to in Central America (I thought Little Corn was more beautiful), but unfortunately we only had two nights and one full day. We spent it hiking to a high lush waterfall but didn't bring any food so we were starving, though we picked some dryish tangerines and a lemon from a tree and ate those (we also picked some avocadoes which we carried around for the rest of our trip but abandoned in Costa Rica). The next day we had to leave. We skipped the first “dependable” bus so we could check out the beach, which turned out to be lovely and was only five minutes from where we were staying. Then we waited for the next bus for over an hour. I ordered an orange juice and an old woman went to a tree in front of the place with a big stick and knocked down three oranges to make the jugo. The bus never showed up so we caught a taxi which after an hour or so broke down. After that we hitched a ride with some tourists from America who had rented a car. They were going to stop at a natural spring on their way to the ferry so we went with them, and it was one of the most beautiful places both of us had ever been. We were dying to spend a full day there swimming in the shady crystal clear water but had to rush to catch the 4 pm ferry and just made it after dodging potholes and livestock.
After that we took a taxi to the surfing town of San Juan Del Sur and arrived just in time for a gorgeous sunset and in the night went for a few drinks (after the power came on). Apparently a guy we were having drinks with did some cocaine after we all left and was taken to jail. The police gave him a choice of withdrawing 500 USD from an ATM or spending a few years in a Nicaraguan prison.
The next day we had to go through customs and then had a 6 hour bus ride to San Jose, Costa Rica. Both of us had early flights the next morning, so we went through security together then simulcast airport ontology, my visceral missing until seeing red over Deltaohara.